Grímsey: The Arctic island with 20 people and one million birds

Set some 40km off Iceland’s northern coast, this windswept sliver is home to one of Europe’s most remote settlements and a thriving seabird population.

Even on a sunny day in late August, the wind on the island of Grímsey cut through our waterproof layers with so much force that one bad gust felt as if it could wipe us clean off the map for good.
My husband and I arrived on Grímsey’s beautiful, blustery shores carrying a couple of wooden walking sticks – not so much to help us keep our balance against the elements, but rather to ward off the Arctic terns that are notorious for dive-bombing unassuming tourists who wander too close to their nests along the craggy coastline. As we slowly walked around the island’s dramatic basalt cliffs, we also noticed a few puffin stragglers who had yet to migrate out to sea before returning to Grímsey in full force come April.
A 6.5-sq-km island set some 40km off Iceland’s northern coast, Grímsey is the country’s northernmost inhabited point and the only sliver of Iceland located within the Arctic Circle. In many ways, this frigid far-flung isle cast off a frigid far-flung island nation is Iceland at its most elusive and extreme – and therein lies its appeal.