A 200km kayak along one of Europe’s last wild rivers

One of Europe’s last wild rivers, the Vjosa winds some 272km from Greece’s Pindus Mountains to Albania’s Adriatic coast, coursing through narrow gorges and expansive valleys, its blue-green waters slipping past Illyrian ruins, timeworn villages and stark mountainous landscapes.

Home to more than 1,100 species, including the critically endangered European eel, otters and the rarely sighted Egyptian vulture, the Vjosa is more than just a river; it’s a lifeline for riverside communities and a symbol of Albanian heritage and renewal. Its turquoise waters and diverse habitats support wildlife, fishing, agriculture and increasingly, eco-tourism.
In a historic move, in March 2023, the Vjosa was established as Europe’s first Wild River National Park – a status aimed at preserving its unique ecosystem and biodiversity.
“Rivers are among Europe’s most endangered habitats, with less than 10% free-flowing,” said Beth Thoren, director of environmental action at Patagonia, which collaborated with the Albanian government on the establishment of the national park. Thoren stressed the importance of protecting rivers like the Vjosa. “Standing on the Vjosa’s banks, you realise you’ve never seen a truly ‘wild’ river – no dams, reservoirs or concrete banks restricting its flow.”
Though the Vjosa now enjoys protected status, potential threats persist. Plans for the Kalivaç Dam, a hydroelectric project on the river, were scrapped in 2021 after public outcry, but other pressures loom. The construction of Vlora International Airport next to the Vjosa-Nartë Lagoon – a vital stopover for migrating birds – has alarmed environmentalists, as has a recent law allowing luxury tourism developments within protected areas. Big-name investors like Jared Kushner are now eyeing the Vjosa Delta for high-end resorts, sparking fears that the region could face irreversible changes.
After some hairy encounters with Class II and III rapids, I reached the village of Çarshovë and stopped for lunch at a riverside restaurant owned by Ana Janku, a lifelong resident of the Vjosa. Janku’s restaurant, like so many along the river, is entirely self-sustained, with everything sourced from her family’s plot of land: vegetables, livestock and home-baked bread, as well as freshly caught fish (while we were chatting, her son Stavro was busy casting his nets).
As I tucked into a spread of byrek (a savoury filled pastry), goulash and fresh tzatziki, Janku explained how the Vjosa has sustained her family for generations, and while she welcomed the national park status, she still worries about future development that might threaten the Vjosa. “This river is everything to us,” she said. “We looked after it long before it was officially protected.” She also expressed relief over the now-abandoned Kalivaç dam. “If anyone wants to invest in the Vjosa, they have to make sure they respect it.”