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The hard-working origins of the ‘blue-collar jacket’ – and other workwear classics

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The humble barn jacket, chore coat and donkey jacket have all gone from functional workwear to “It-item”. As a trend, is it a betrayal of the garments’ US and UK working-class roots – or does it “honour the grit and resilience” that they represent?

The barn, chore and donkey jacket are now the holy trinity of cool coats. These workwear garments – once worn solely for the hard toil and physical graft of manual labour – are now the uniform de rigueur of big-city hipsters and fashionistas. But these modern wardrobe staples have a complicated and, at times, turbulent political and cultural history.
Rise of the barn jacket
Autumn is the season of the barn jacket, it seems, with Hailey Bieber, Dua Lipa and Alexa Chung among its fans. Vogue called the barn jacket an “It-item”, The Guardian described it as “properly useful, but also visually pleasing”, and Marie Claire touted it as “the only coat to wear right now”.
Ranging in colour from duck-egg green to deep maroon to Dijon mustard, the barn jacket can be recognised by its simplicity, functionality (implied by its name, it was originally worn for the messiness of mucking out stables) and roomy pockets.
Workwear is like a love letter to a time that has passed and will never come back – Albert Muzquiz
Similar in aesthetic to that iconic British classic, the Barbour, the barn jacket took off following Prada’s spring/summer 2024 catwalk show, but the ease with which the barn jacket fits into everyday life may be what has made it so popular and appealing.
“I just think there’s an effortlessness that comes from these clothes. Which is kind of funny because it’s workwear, made for manual work. It’s functional. But it also has a real heart and soul,” Albert Muzquiz tells the BBC. Muzquiz is a fashion historian and social media influencer; known on Instagram as EdgyAlbert, his TikTok video about chore coats has had more than 75,000 views.
Muzquiz is familiar with the politics of the US’s workwear legacy brands – names like Carhartt and Dickies, and pioneers like Levi Strauss. Of course, these brands feature their own barn and chore jackets in their collections, like the Carhartt WIP’s workaday Detroit jacket and the Dickies duck canvas chore coat, coats that celebrities and fashion fans have been wearing to either dress down a dress and a pair of stilettos, or to throw over jeans for a coffee morning run.

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International

LA fire victims fear new housing crisis

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Michael Storc and his family had just survived a devastating wildfire.
Now they have to face a daunting new challenge that he had hoped to never experience again – the Los Angeles housing market.
After losing the Altadena home that he owned in the Eaton fire, he was scouring for a new place to rent, and having little luck.
“What’s available is not nice at all and the rents have gone up a lot,” Mr Storc told the BBC. “I told my teenage daughter we had to accept we would live somewhere not very nice.”
The Los Angeles area already has one of the most expensive real estate markets in the country. And with thousands now displaced by the Palisades and Eaton fires, Angelenos are anxious that the sudden surge in demand could make rents and home prices soar even higher.
California has an anti-price gouging law that prevents landlords from raising rents more than 10% after the governor declares an emergency. It applies to both existing and tenants and new leases.
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LA brain surgeon saves street from fires
Many Los Angeles County buildings are also covered by rent stabilisation laws, which prevent landlords from raising the rent for existing tenants above a certain percentage even in normal circumstances.
“It is illegal. You cannot do it,” California attorney general Rob Bonta said at a Saturday press conference. “It is a crime punishable by up to a year in jail and fines.”
Not everyone was certain that the law would be completely enforceable, however.
“We’re aware of that but my question is, how is that being regulated? And who’s monitoring that?” said Jessica Heredia, a realtor based in the high-end Brentwood neighbourhood for the last 20 years.

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LA brain surgeon saves street from ‘apocalyptic’ wildfires

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A Los Angeles brain surgeon who fought for almost a week to save the houses on his street from wildfires told the BBC he spent 15 years preparing for such an event.
Malibu resident Dr Chester Griffiths, 62, ignored evacuation orders to keep flames from the Palisades fire at bay with the help of his son and neighbour, until emergency services were able to reach them.
“We had always known that a fire would come someday – but we didn’t know when,” Dr Griffiths told the BBC’s Today Programme.
“We never fathomed it would be this catastrophic and apocalyptic.”

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S Korea begins impeachment trial of suspended president

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South Korea’s Constitutional Court has held its first hearing to decide if suspended President Yoon Suk Yeol should be removed from office after his shock martial law attempt last month.
The hearing ended within four minutes because of Yoon’s absence – his lawyers had earlier said he would not attend for his own safety, as there is a warrant out for his arrest on separate charges of insurrection.
In December, Yoon was suspended after members of his own party voted with the opposition to impeach him.
However he will only be formally removed from office if at least six of the eight-member Constitutional Court bench votes to uphold the impeachment.
According to South Korean law, the court must set a new date for a hearing before they can proceed without his participation.
The next hearing is scheduled for Thursday.
Yoon’s lawyers have indicated that he will show up for a hearing at an “appropriate time”, but they have challenged the court’s “unilateral decision” on trial dates.
The court on Tuesday rejected the lawyers’ request for one of the eight justices to be recused from the proceedings.
Yoon has not commented publicly since parliament voted to impeach him on 14 December and has been speaking primarily through his lawyers.
Investigators are also separately preparing for another attempt to arrest Yoon for alleged insurrection, after an earlier attempt on 3 January ended following an hours-long standoff with his security team.
Yoon is South Korea’s first sitting president to face arrest. The second attempt to take him into custody could happen as early as this week, according to local media.
The suspended leader has not commented publicly since parliament voted to impeach him on 14 December and has been speaking primarily through his lawyers.
Yoon’s short-lived martial law declaration on 3 December has thrown South Korea into political turmoil. He had tried to justify the attempt by saying he was protecting the country from “anti-state” forces, but it soon became clear it was spurred by his own political troubles.
What followed was an unprecedented few weeks which saw the opposition-dominated parliament vote to impeach Yoon and then Prime Minister Han Duck-soo, who succeeded him briefly as acting president.
The crisis has hit the country’s economy, with the won weakening and global credit rating agencies warning of weakening consumer and business sentiment.
Former presidents Roh Moo-hyun and Park Geun-hye did not attend their impeachment trials in 2004 and 2017 respectively.
In Park’s case, the first hearing ended after nine minutes in her absence.
Roh was reinstated after a two-month review, while Park’s impeachment was upheld.

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