Entertainment
The rise and fall of Vang Vieng, Laos’ notorious party town
Once notorious as a debauched riverside party town, Vang Vieng had cleaned up its act in recent years, but is now in the headlines for all the wrong reasons once again.
“Just make sure you push yourself off the end when you reach the bottom of the slide. We had someone die on those rocks down there last week.”
It was 2010, and for the young me – teenaged, inebriated and on my first ever backpacking trip through Southeast Asia – health and safety were far from the top of the agenda.
Nevertheless, I heeded the advice offered by the dreadlocked Australian bartender, and, as I reached the end of the tiled slide, gave myself an almighty push into the air above the Nam Song River, throwing out a warning yell to alert the revellers in the water below of my clumsily impending cannonball.
Vang Vieng, a town of around 25,000 people on the banks of the Nam Song River in central Laos, has for decades been a firm fixture on the so-called “Banana Pancake Trail” – the backpacker path through Southeast Asia named for the go-to breakfast at so many guesthouses and cafes along the route. Once notoriously known as a debauched riverside party town, Vang Vieng had cleaned up its act in recent years, but it is now in the headlines for all the wrong reasons once again, with a number of foreign tourists having died after ingesting drinks laced with methanol.
Vang Vieng became famous as a party destination in the late 1990s for its plentiful backpacker hostels and wooden riverside bars stocked with cheap Beerlao and lao-lao, the local rice whisky often sold with a whole snake or scorpion infusing in the bottle – the intermingling of the venom and the alcohol believed to bestow medicinal benefits to the drinker.
Back then, the iconic mode of tourist transport in Vang Vieng, known simply as “tubing”, involved travellers floating downriver on the inflated inner tube of a tractor tyre, disembarking at the riverside bars to play drinking games – beer pong was a particular favourite – and throwing themselves off ramshackle rope swings and slides overhanging the river. The tubing practice supposedly originated in 1999 with a local farmer, Thanongsi Sorangkoun, who lent the inner tubes to his workers to allow them to unwind on the river. It quickly developed into just as big a fixture on the itinerary of many backpackers as the notorious Full Moon parties of Thailand’s Koh Pha Ngan.
By the time of my visit in the early 2010s, Vang Vieng was a place of loose morals, light policing and Wild West tourism. Besides the riverine activities, the town was famous for its “happy bars” where blissed-out, red-eyed Westerners would sit before untouched plates of food, gazing up at televisions playing endless re-runs of Friends and Family Guy. Sit down in one of these establishments and open the menu, and, alongside the usual backpacker fare of pizzas, noodles, burgers and fried rice, you would find a veritable pharmacopeia: pre-rolled spliffs, mushroom pizzas, mushroom shakes – mushroom everything.
Needless to say, the combination of a shallow river, sharp rocks and unregulated rope swings, combined with the cheap availability of alcohol and psychedelic drugs, proved dangerous. In 2011, the town’s hospital recorded 27 deaths due to drowning or suffering serious trauma against the river’s rocks; that figure did not include patients taken directly to Vientiane, Laos’ capital, which is two hours away by road. The same evening as my adventures on the “death slide”, as it was known locally, I had to help take a fellow tourist to the hospital after she shattered her ankle falling into the river. As a group of us helped her up the riverbank towards the nearest road, an ambulance could reach, we passed through a forest ablaze with fireflies – a reminder that, for all the madness, natural beauty cannot help but intrude in Vang Vieng.
Actor Ekin Koç called seaside Antalya home before conquering the world of Turkish film. Here are his picks, from hiking the Lycian Road to catching a concert at the Aspendos Theatre.
Though its name may be less familiar to overseas travellers than Istanbul, the Turkish resort city of Antalya is no stranger to visitors. Founded by the Ancient Greeks as Attalia in the 2nd Century BCE, Antalya has since been occupied by the Romans, the Seljuk Sultanate and the Ottomans; even withstanding a brief Italian occupation after World War One before Turkey claimed independence. Today, Antalya – the crowning jewel of the Turkish Riviera and, along with Istanbul, one of the world’s most visited cities in 2023 – attracts both families and A-list celebrities with its 2,000-year-old Old Town and stunning turquoise waters.
Sometimes, the celebrity strolling Antalya’s spectacular seashore is actually a native. We caught up with Antalya-born film star Ekin Koç (best known to English-speaking audiences as Turkish business advisor Kadir in HBO’s Succession) to get his take on his beautiful hometown, studded by the Taurus mountains and cradled by the Mediterranean sea.
“If you’re from Antalya, you have a special connection with the sea,” says Koç. “The sea is everywhere. We eat from the sea, we swim, we sit next to the sea. I’ve always loved being in connection with the sea.”
As the world turns its gaze to Italy’s Cortina d’Ampezzo as one of the hosts of the 2026 Milano Cortina Winter Olympics, veteran Olympic skier Kristian Ghedina shares his hometown picks.
Nestled between the jutting spires of Italy’s Unesco-listed Dolomites mountain range, the small town and ski resort of Cortina d’Ampezzo (altitude 1,224m), is often called the “Queen of the Dolomites”. Located in a valley near the rainbow-hued Cinque Torri mountain, Cortina’s distinctive Tyrolean architecture has remained mostly untouched by modern developments.
This jewel-like ski resort is also one of Italy’s favourite wintertime destinations, luring local jet setters and professional skiers for the settimana bianca, or “white week” – the Italian custom of taking a weeklong winter ski retreat. The resort has become so synonymous with style that designer and athletic labels like MC2 Saint Barth and Kappa have used its name to sell a myriad of clothing items. And yet, Cortina d’Ampezzo has been largely unknown overseas – until now.
This sleepy ski town is about to attract a global audience as one of the hosts of the 2026 Milano Cortina Winter Olympics. But 2026 will hardly be its first Olympic foray; Cortina d’Ampezzo was also the host of the 1956 Winter Olympic Games. It’s further known for being the birthplace and home of retired Olympic downhill skier Kristian Ghedina.
“In Cortina, every youngster skis,” says Ghedina. “I’ve travelled the world… but I’m attached to my land, my town. It’s a very strong bond that [you have] with snow and skiing.”
Australian actress Melanie Zanetti, the voice behind Chilli Heeler, knows exactly what makes Brisbane so special. Here are her top picks for families in Queensland’s capital.
Brisbane has quietly reinvented itself in recent years, shaking off its once-sleepy reputation to become one of Australia’s most exciting cities. Long overshadowed by Sydney and Melbourne, the Queensland capital now hums with a creative energy that feels distinctly its own. Spots like the revitalised Howard Smith Wharves and vibrant laneway bars prove that this subtropical city isn’t just growing up – it’s thriving. And with the 2032 Olympics on the horizon, Brisbane is ready to take its place on the global stage.
Adding to Brisbane’s shine is Bluey, the hugely popular children’s show that’s produced and set here; capturing hearts worldwide and offering a window into Brisbane’s sun-drenched, easygoing lifestyle. From the show’s lush parklands and characteristic veranda-wrapped Queenslander homes to its playful focus on family life, Bluey – and the city’s new interactive Bluey’s World experience – captures the essence of what makes Brisbane special.
“It’s like the fabric of Bluey is in Brisbane,” says Melanie Zanetti, the voice of Chilli Heeler, Bluey’s beloved TV mum, noting that the city, like the show, has something special to offer families everywhere: a reminder to slow down, play and find joy in the everyday. “It’s a gorgeous place to raise children. It is such a warm and friendly city, climate-wise, but also just the general energy of the place.”
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