The hidden symbolism of first ladies’ inaugural fashion

By the time each U.S. President is sworn in, the first lady may already be a familiar face, either due to her campaign trail appearances (or absences), or prior roles within the White House. And, since 1965, when Lady Bird Johnson spearheaded her environmental campaigns, it has also become customary for first ladies — and, presumably in the future, first gentlemen — to prepare their own policies.

Still, the presidential inauguration has long been an opportunity for the first lady to make an immediate first impression — and they’ve often done so through their fashion choices during the day-to-evening affair. In 2021, Dr. Jill Biden promoted the spirit of unity through subtle symbolism, wearing a custom ivory dress and cashmere coat by Gabriela Hearst, embroidered with the federal flowers from every U.S. state and territory. Four years earlier, Melania Trump wore a Ralph Lauren cashmere dress and high-neck cropped jacket in a baby blue hue that conjured the image of former first lady Jacqueline Kennedy and all the fashionable prestige her image evokes.

But the tradition of making a statement through clothing goes back to 1912, when Helen Taft donated her gown from the inaugural ball to the Smithsonian National Museum of American History. Since then the museum has collected each inaugural ensemble for its First Ladies collection, giving their sartorial choices additional longevity and gravity as they are kept on view for the public.

Below are some of the first ladies whose inauguration outfits held deep symbolism — and sometimes, invited controversy.